Pietermaritzburg: Mandela Capture Site, Howick Falls and the provincial capital

Pietermaritzburg is worth a stop if Mandela history is on your list

The provincial capital of KwaZulu-Natal sits 80 km inland from Durban on the N3, the main highway between Johannesburg and the coast. Most travellers drive past without stopping. The detour is worthwhile for two specific reasons: the Mandela Capture Site memorial near Howick, and the Victorian-era city centre — one of the best-preserved colonial city centres in South Africa.

Pietermaritzburg is not a destination in its own right for most international visitors. It is a sensible half-day to full-day addition to a KZN circuit, particularly on the Johannesburg-to-Durban drive when the N3 passes directly through the Midlands.

The Mandela Capture Site

On 5 August 1962, Nelson Mandela was stopped at a police roadblock on the R103 near Howick, approximately 22 km north of Pietermaritzburg. He had been driving disguised as a chauffeur (he was a wanted man operating underground after the ANC was banned). His arrest that day marked the beginning of his 27-year imprisonment, which ended in February 1990.

The Mandela Capture Site is now a national heritage site and memorial. The centrepiece is a sculpture by artist Marco Cianfanelli: fifty 9-metre steel columns that, when viewed from a specific position 35 metres from the installation, resolve into a recognisable profile of Mandela’s face. The effect is dramatic and the conceptual design — fragmented from close up, unified from the correct distance — is a deliberate metaphor for Mandela’s imprisonment and legacy.

The site has an interpretive centre, a café, and a gift shop. It sits roadside on the R103 and is accessible by car. Allow 45-60 minutes.

The Mandela Capture Site, Howick Falls and PheZulu Village day trip from Durban combines all three sites efficiently in a single day from the coast.

Howick Falls

Howick Falls is 3 km from the centre of Howick town, off the R617. The Umgeni River drops 95 metres in a single plunge — a proper waterfall, not a cascade. The viewing platform above the falls is well-maintained and the views are clear. The town of Howick has several good cafes and an unusually strong bookshop culture for a small midlands town.

Howick Falls is pleasant for 30-45 minutes. It is not a destination worth travelling specifically to see on its own, but it combines naturally with the Mandela Capture Site (8 km away) as part of a midlands stop. The Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve below the falls has walking trails.

Pietermaritzburg city centre

The Victorian city centre — known locally as “Maritzburg” — contains an unusually intact collection of red-brick colonial architecture. The City Hall (1900, the largest all-brick building in the southern hemisphere at the time of construction) anchors Church Street; the Natal Museum and the Colonial Building are nearby. The Church of the Vow is a historical landmark — a small brick church built by the Voortrekkers in 1838 in fulfilment of a vow made before the Battle of Blood River.

This is interesting primarily for those with an architectural or South African history interest. The city centre works as a 90-minute walking circuit if you are already in the area.

Gandhi’s ejection: Pietermaritzburg is where Mahatma Gandhi was thrown from a first-class train carriage in 1893 for being “a coloured person” in a white carriage. He spent the night at the station and reportedly made his decision to stay in South Africa to fight racial discrimination that night. A plaque marks the platform. It is not a formal attraction but the context matters enormously.

The Midlands Meander

The Natal Midlands — the agricultural and arts community in the hills between Pietermaritzburg and the Drakensberg — is home to the Midlands Meander, a 100-km self-drive arts and crafts route connecting pottery studios, cheese farms, fly-fishing lodges, weaving studios, and country restaurants. The Meander runs primarily along the R103 and surrounding farm roads.

It is a pleasant morning or afternoon add-on for those exploring the Midlands, though the quality of individual stops varies. The Merino wool weaving at Ardmore Ceramic Art Studio (now relocated but the tradition continues) is among the better-known stops. Nottingham Road and Mooi River are the main hub towns.

Getting there

Pietermaritzburg is on the N3, 80 km from Durban — approximately 1 hour. From Johannesburg it is approximately 5.5-6 hours down the N3. Howick and the Mandela Capture Site are 22-25 km north of Pietermaritzburg on the R103.

The Drakensberg and Mandela Capture Site full-day tour from Durban covers the Midlands and Mandela heritage sites alongside the northern Drakensberg in a long but comprehensive day.

Frequently asked questions about Pietermaritzburg

How long does the Mandela Capture Site visit take?

Allow 45-60 minutes including the interpretive centre. The sculpture requires walking to the correct viewing distance (marked by a small platform) to see the portrait effect clearly. The interpretive centre has good biographical context and some original photographs from the underground period.

Is Pietermaritzburg safe to visit?

Standard South African city caution applies. The historic city centre in daylight hours is manageable; avoid walking in the city after dark. The Mandela Capture Site and Howick are low-risk rural/suburban locations.

What is the best restaurant near the Mandela Capture Site?

The site’s own café is functional. Howick town has several good options — Boston Tea Room (known locally for its setting in the old town) and several artisan café/bakery operations along the R103 toward Hilton. The Midlands Meander route has multiple farm-based lunch spots if you are doing a morning circuit.

Historical context: why Pietermaritzburg matters

Pietermaritzburg was founded in 1838 by Voortrekkers following the Battle of Blood River and named after Piet Retief and Gert Maritz, Voortrekker leaders who died in the region. It became the capital of the British Colony of Natal in 1843 and remained the provincial capital through to the post-apartheid era. The Victorian colonial architecture that survived in the city centre reflects its role as the administrative heart of the most British-identified South African colony.

The city has an intimate connection with several major figures of South African and international history. Gandhi’s decision to stay in South Africa and fight for Indian rights began here, in the segregated Pietermaritzburg station. John Langalibalele Dube, first ANC president, was educated and based in the Inanda valley outside the city. Nelson Mandela was arrested nearby. Alan Paton wrote Cry, the Beloved Country from his experience as principal of the Diepkloof Reformatory and as an observer of Natal life. Each of these threads contributes to a historical density that punches well above the city’s size.

Practical Pietermaritzburg

Camping and outdoors: Midmar Dam (30 km north near Howick) is a large reservoir popular for sailing, windsurfing, and camping. The Midmar Mile — a famous open-water swimming race — takes place here annually. Good campsite for families.

Budget accommodation: Pietermaritzburg has a range of guesthouses and B&Bs in the ZAR 700-1 400/room range in the residential suburbs (Hayfields, Scottsville) near the university. The Protea Hotel Pietermaritzburg and the Imperial Hotel (Longmarket Street, historic Victorian building) are the main town-centre options.

The university campus: UKZN’s Pietermaritzburg campus occupies beautiful grounds on the city edge. The botanical gardens within the campus are open to visitors and include one of the oldest cycad collections in KZN.

Church Street Mall: the pedestrianised section of Church Street in front of City Hall is functional for basics and has a good African art and craft market on weekend mornings.

The Mandela Capture Site, Howick Falls and PheZulu Village day trip from Durban is the guided option for those travelling without a car who want to cover the Midlands heritage sites in a single structured day.